Trattoria Athena

OK gang:  It's Thursday night.  It's snowing like a (fill in the blank) and there just aren't enough items in the bottom left hand drawer in the refrigerator to make a decent meal.  What to do??? GO OUT for dinner of course!

We didn't have to call around to find out who was open either.  Trattoria Athena on Mill St. in Brunswick has already posted on Facebook that they are open and ready for business.  A simple phone call to 721-0700 and we've got a table for two waiting for us.

Jason (who answered the phone and then also waited on us) recognized us immediately upon walking in the front door.  Don't ask me how, we'd never met before, but this probably goes as a testament that they know their customers and are committed to excellence here. 

The restaurant is located in a quaint, old building and is complete with authentic tin ceilings, beautifully framed photography depicting regions in Italy and Greece, two large chalk boards with both food and wine specials scrawled on them and a very busy but inviting atmosphere.  Both of the Chef/Owners Mark Provencher and Tim O'Brien are present in the kitchen tonight preparing dishes and keeping an eye on the front through the opening into the dining area.

We asked Jason to help us with a wine selection this evening, and lo and behold, he chose a red that we have come to cherish for it's syrah-like qualities.  Its big, jammy, fruity and well-balanced: the 2007 Allegrini Plazzo Della Torre from the Veronese in Italy.

For our first courses we chose the Saganaki (pan fried kefolograviera cheese) with lemon and Carciofini Fritti (lightly battered and fried artichoke hearts and stems) served with a lemon garlic aoli. Both of these dishes blew us away with their unique flavors and complimentary textures.  The Saganaki was truly amazing with its ripe, earthy flavors and the texture and added dimension of the fried (caramelized) outer crust was unbelievable!  The Carciofini was equally exciting and flavorful.  The fried texture of the batter, fried in what had to be the cleanest oil I've tasted recently, gave way to the wonderful delicate flavor of the artichoke flesh.  And then we tried the aoli!  Wow!!!  We almost dipped our spoons right into the aoli and ate it straight it was that good.  I did manage to dip some of my bread into what little of it was left after we consumed the group of hearts.


For our next course, we chose a small portion of the Pappardelle al Sugo do Lepre (fresh wide ribbon pasta with rabbit ragu) and Bresaola (a salad of local arugula, shaved Parmigiano Reggiano and air-cured beef thinly sliced).  The Bresaola was a treat.  The thinly sliced beef (very carpaccio like) was succulent and sweet like a cured beef should be.  I rolled up some of the arugula and shaved parigiano and ate it together.  Deliciosa!  Now just for the record: I like my food.  Kate likes her food. We love great food.  Who doesn't?  But it really takes something really special for me to jump up and down and rave about a dish.  I will tell you now that the Pappardelle was exactly that kind of dish!  Forget about any rabbit you've had in the past.  Forget about fresh, made daily pasta.  Forget about a first course that simply gets your taste buds going.  THIS dish will titillate your taste buds and have your eyes rolling into the back of your head in less than 10 seconds.  Flavor, texture, spices, aroma...pure ecstasy by the spoonful, forkful or however one gets this into their mouth.  The ragu is made using local rabbit, Italian porcini mushrooms, clove and fresh herbs.  This is a must try for any foodie out there!  Although it comes across with a very salty finish, I found this to be one of the most exciting and different menu offerings I have found in the last, I don't know, 10 years or more??  (I was actually wondering if Tim and Mark were worried about our table because our heads were continually shaking back and forth in disbelief at how good it was.)


Needless to say, the wine was very well suited to each and everything we ate this evening.  Have I mentioned that yet?

For our entrees we chose the following two dishes: Saltimbocca alla Romana (a classic Italian entree, made with pork and prosciutto here) and Agriogourouno Sto Fourno (marinated and roasted wild boar).  Kate's Saltimbocca was made using thinly pounded pork, prosciutto di Parma and mushrooms (porcinnis perhaps?) in a sweet wine and butter sauce and served with roasted potatoes, cabbage and sage.  Again, keeping in mind the rich tradition of this dish, it can come across a little salty to the unassuming, but it was really an exceptional dish!  My wild boar was equally interesting and very satiating.  The Greek influence on this dish is obvious.  The boar meat was marinated and roasted (ala pot roast in texture) and served with a sage and local honey sauce over a bed of delicious home made trahana with carrots and onions.  While I can't tell you how they do it here at Trattoria Athena, I can tell you that a traditional Greek trahana is made with only cracked wheat made into a cous-cous like paste and fermented milk. What a treat and a great combination of flavors, textures and aromas!

...Have I mentioned yet that the wine was a perfect match?

We were both feeling the weight of our experience at this point when Jason offered to tempt us with dessert.  Well, how could we say no? 

After boxing up the remainder of the Saltimbocca, we were served 2 cups of Greek Coffee and one Baklava to share.  Again, our eyes rolled into the back of our heads as we savored the best Baklava we have ever eaten.  I vaguely remember being told that it was made using local honey.  But to me what stood out was the unparalleled use of cinnamon and how wonderfully it complimented each and every ingredient in the dessert!

It's a shame that some of our friends that we invited to join us for dinner couldn't make it!  (Hope that meal at home worked out for you!!)

I give Trattoria Athena 5 stars on this visit, two thumbs up and a very exuberant endorsement!  Look them up, call them up, make reservations and go treat yourself!  Ok Kate, your turn!



Kate:   The Carciofini was tremendous. I loved the herbs and parmesan sprinkled so lightly on them, then dipped into the lemon garlic aoli. I could have eaten it with a spoon. It almost had a sweetness to it. I dipped my finger into it a few times but refrained from licking the dish. The Saganaki, while tasty, didn't wow me. The bread and oil were wonderful and as always, my downfall. I can't stay away from it!

I'll be honest with you. I found it all too salty for my taste.  I think next time I need to order some lighter plates in between the heavier ones.

The Saltimbocca was heavenly.  Salty,yes, but the flavor was so unusual. When I first tasted it, I was amazed because it was all so unexpected......I LOVE THAT!  I didn't know it would be so earthy and sweet at the same time.  It reminded me of the time I was in Casablanca, walking through the casbah.  The smells were so foreign to me, exotic, and in combinations so new to my senses.  That's what this dish reminded me of.

My main dish was tasty, but too rich and salty. I was not full, but stopped eating it because it was just overhwhelming.  I had to keep cutting it with bites of bread.  I would have loved the dish served with rice or some other bland compliment to help offset the immense flavor.  Joe's boar seemed more in keeping with what I normally like.

When I ordered the Baklava, I was hoping it would be even half as good as what I experience at the Greek Festival each summer in Portland.  It was not.  It was TWICE as good.  I mean, it was just ridiculous.  It was heavy on the cinnamon to perfection.  I opted for Greek coffee even though I knew I might be sorry .  I asked Jason if he would be available to chat at 3 am if I was still awake......he declined.

The setting was not what I expected.  I guess I didn't know what to expect.  It was very rustic and cozy as you would find in many European cafes.  The surfaces were all very old (floor, tables made of reclaimed wood) and when you combine that with cloth napkins and the elegance of well made food, it is a great combination.  It's almost as if it all happened by accident yet you know it did not. Very well done.  There is also something about being inside a place like this watching a snowstorm happening in front of your eyes.  I can't give Tim and Mark credit for that, but I will say it added to the ambiance! 

Looking forward to going back again.


Until next time, Cheers!

~Joe and Kate